Pre-Arrival D: The Piedmontese Edition
Our first official shipment from our Piedmontese friends. I have to admit, I felt a little sheepish sending through the back-label details bearing the name The French Wine Centre. That feeling was only amplified on my last visit, where I found myself repeatedly slipping French into what was meant to be Italian. I have since promised several people in Italy that I will speak Italian by my next visit. Unfortunately, my track record for formal education suggests that promise may be optimistic at best.
In the past twelve months, I have received more emails and calls enquiring about a single wine than at any other point in my eight years of importing. In fact, that record is now jointly held by two wines in this shipment: the 2021 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Blue Label and the 2021 Barbaresco Rabajà. We are fortunate to have received a substantial allocation of 900 bottles of each, and the excitement around them is entirely justified. Cortese is the largest landholder in Rabajà, one of Barbaresco’s top-tier MGAs, and long regarded as a producer offering some of the best value across the three great “B” regions: Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Barolo/Barbaresco. Combine that with the highly anticipated 2021 vintage, and the interest is more than justifiable.
Cascina Fontana are among the finest proponents of traditional Barolo winemaking today. Their relative anonymity is entirely self-inflicted, a deliberate choice to avoid press and promotion. Production is modest, and as a result our allocation is a fraction of the Cortese wines, with just 180 bottles of Barolo arriving in the country.
My preference is to drink wine with age, considerable age if possible. For Burgundy, that is difficult, the price is high and the volumes are miniscule. With Barolo and Barbaresco they are still within the grasps of purchasing for true cellaring purposes. To really incentivise cellaring, we have decided to create even further dozen specials when any of the Cortese Barbaresco 750ml bottles are purchased as straight dozens. Take for example a dozen bottles of the 2021 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco, $75 for a bottle pre arrival, however we have opted to go even harder offering the bottle price in a straight dozen to be $66.58 a bottle. We are applying the same absurd theory to Rabaja as below.
2021 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco (Blue Label)
Pre Arrival: $75
In a straight dozen pre arrival $799 ($66.58 a bottle)
2021 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja
Pre Arrival: $122
In a straight dozen pre arrival $1250 ($104.17 a bottle)
Arrival: May 2026
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Guiseppe Cortese
Located in the heart of Barbaresco, Giuseppe Cortese is a family-operated estate known for a traditional approach and a delicately perfumed, classical expression of terroir. The estate owns approximately 4 hectares in the revered Rabajà cru, defined by its steep, south to south-west facing slopes and calcareous marl and clay soils.
In the vineyard, the focus is on careful selection, hand-harvesting and organic practices to maintain purity and authenticity. In the cellar, fermentations occur spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, followed by extended macerations in stainless steel to build structure and aromatic detail without excess. Ageing takes place exclusively in large Slavonian oak botti, preserving varietal character and site expression. The resulting wines are balanced, refined and quietly expressive, offering clarity, longevity and, notably, consistently approachable pricing.
2023 Guiseppe Cortese Langhe Bianco 'Scapulin'
750ml: Pre Arrival $49
1500ml: Pre Arrival $97
Variety: Chardonnay
High toned perfumed with a primary banana estry character that that blows off to reveal dried white floats crushed chalk, lanolin & some underlying stonefruit depth.
The palate is highly energetic with a line of beautiful rock salt salinity, crushed chalk, all with a semi cooked quince with a whisper of richer underlying dried apricot.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
2024 Guiseppe Cortese Langhe Dolcetto
Pre Arrival $29
Variety: Dolcetto
The 2024 Langhe Dolcetto is a very pretty, delicate wine. Crushed flowers, dried herbs, spice and bright red-toned fruit all grace this ethereal, perfumed Dolcetto. The understated, lighter style is typical of the year.
88 points
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
2024 Guiseppe Cortese Barbera D'alba
Pre Arrival $37
Variety: Barbera
The 2024 Barbera d’Alba is terrific. Floral and punchy, with lovely, delicate red berry fruit, the Barbera is gentle, perfumed and understated, but with lovely mid-palate pliancy that pulls it all together. Vinification and aging in steel keeps the flavors bright.
89 points
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
2020 Guiseppe Cortese Barbera d'Alba 'Morassin'
Pre Arrival $49
Variety: Barbera
A 1-hectare parcel of 45-year-old vines. The wine is matured for 18 months in large Slovenian oak.
2023 Guiseppe Cortese Langhe Nebbiolo
Pre Arrival $49
Variety: Nebbiolo
The 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo emerges from young vines in Trifolera. Crushed rose petal, sweet dried cherry, cinnamon and orange peel give this translucent Langhe Nebbiolo notable aromatic presence. The style leans into the ethereal end of the spectrum.
89 points
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
2021 Guiseppe Cortese Barbaresco
750ml: Pre Arrival $75
In a straight dozen pre arrival $799 ($66.58 a bottle)
1500ml: Pre Arrival $268
Variety: Nebbiolo
Aged for 18 months in Slavonian oak barrels ranging from 17 to 25 hectolitres, all a minimum of five to six years old. Sourced entirely from Rabajà, this is a more vibrant and less densely structured expression than the wine below.
The 2021 Barbaresco shows all the pedigree and classicism of this great vintage. Bright, poised and super-expressive, the 2021 is a total delight in every way. Crushed leaves, orange peel, mint, rosewater and sweet pipe tobacco are some of the many notes that grace a Barbaresco, which is all about sublime elegance.
94 points
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
2021 Guiseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabaja
750ml: Pre Arrival $122
In a straight dozen pre arrival $1250 ($104.17 a bottle)
1500ml: Pre Arrival $292
Variety: Nebbiolo
A long 30-day maceration in stainless steel and concrete precedes ageing in old, large-format Slovenian oak for 20–22 months. The fruit is drawn from the most prized parcels across the estate’s Rabajà holdings, delivering an added level of typicity, structure and refinement, with the ethereal character for which the cru is known.
The 2021 Barbaresco Rabajà is complex, dynamic and youthfully austere—in other words, it's classic Rabajà. Dark-toned fruit, menthol, licorice, spice, gravel, incense, tobacco and dried herbs fill out the layers. Medium in body and complex, with myriad shades of expression, the 2021 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Readers can also expect a Riserva edition.
95 points
Antonio Galloni, vinous.com
Cascina Fontana
Cascina Fontana is a long-standing, family-run estate with over 200 years of history in Barolo. Their vineyards are located in Castiglione Falletto, including holdings in Villero (upper sections) and Mariandino, totalling 7 hectares. They also lease a small parcel in Perno for their Monforte d’Alba bottling.
The estate remains firmly committed to traditional Barolo blending rather than single-cru (MGA) bottlings. The aim is to express a commune and a coherent house style, rather than isolating individual components. As such, vinification follows exceptionally traditional methods: long macerations to absorb green or rustic tannins and to build elegance and texture. Fermentation and ageing take place in concrete tanks and large, neutral oak, with minimal use of smaller barrels, aside from their Barbera. Cap management is entirely manual, with no mechanical punch-downs.
The objective is wines of softness, finesse, and longevity rather than force.
2023 Cascina Fontana Dolcetto D'Alba DOC
Pre Arrival $39
Variety: Dolcetto
Mario spoke with a genuine fondness for Dolcetto and its place in Piedmont, and I have to say I agree wholeheartedly. We tasted the current vintage straight from tank. Whether it was for show or not, he certainly did not seem to be putting it on, knocking back three gulps in quick succession. It was straight out of a XXXX ad from far north Queensland. I followed suit.
I have a real affection for a village’s everyday wine. Almost always, the freshness and vitality outweigh other wines of the region, regardless of how much more expensive they may be. Where a region retains humility, these daily wines are often sold at sensible prices, as demonstrated by both producers in this offer.
It reminded me of tasting a Coteaux Bourguignons with one of our producers in Burgundy. They sold the wine to locals for €1.50 a litre. I asked if we might have some. They obliged, though the bottle worked out at close to $80 AUD.
They farm a tiny 0.5 hectare parcel of Dolcetto and allow yields to creep higher than usual, encouraging a wine of ease and immediacy, deliberately avoiding weight or heaviness.
High toned, bright & pure with layers of fresh red fruit all with underlying violet & darker fruit nuances.
The palate emphasises the crunchy red fruit, florals & lime juice acidity. Lively fruit & mountain herb complexity.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
2022 Cascina Fontana Barbera D'alba DOC
Pre Arrival $53
Variety: Barbera
This wine is treated more seriously than the Dolcetto, particularly in terms of yield control. It is also the only wine where a slightly more modern approach is employed, and for a clear reason. In warmer vintages, Mario finds that Barbera can become a little loose and benefit from additional structural support.
As such, the wine is raised 50 percent in concrete to preserve freshness and bright fruit character, and 50 percent in barrel to provide shape and framing, without dominance.
Certainly a more brooding, round, blue fruited nose with an almost plush & luxurious medicinal cherry character that is pleasing, welcoming yet retaining intrigue & detail.
The palate reflects this being round in nature with black cherry cassis & a little ripe plum with some tannin wrapped in suave fault.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
2022 Cascina Fontana Langhe DOC Nebbiolo
Pre Arrival $63
Variety: Nebbiolo
Fontana’s Langhe Nebbiolo sits firmly within the same philosophy as their Barolo and is not treated as a lesser wine. The only meaningful distinction is a shorter period of maturation. The fruit comes from Barolo-classified vineyards, drawn either from younger vines or from less favoured aspects. Stylistically, the result is a more transparent, energetic, and immediately expressive wine.
2020 Cascina Fontana Barolo DOCG
750ml: Pre Arrival $166
1500ml: Pre Arrival $340
3000ml: Pre Arrival $748
Variety: Nebbiolo
A blend of grapes from the MGAs of Villero and Mariondino in Castiglione Falletto, and Giachini in La Morra (70% and 30% respectively). Intense garnet red. Wild strawberry, violets, earth and moss. In the mouth it’s juicy, extremely drinkable and fresh, with round tannins and a finish that recalls macerated cherries. The grapes are vinified separately in cement tanks. Maceration lasts 40 days, and the wine ages for two years in 25-hectolitre barrels, then one year in cement.
94 Points
Tiziano Gaia, Decanter.com
2020 Cascina Fontana Barolo DOCG DEL COMUNE DI CASTIGLIONE FALLETTO
750ml: Pre Arrival $229
1500ml: Pre Arrival $460
3000ml: Pre Arrival $978
Variety: Nebbiolo
Only produced in the best years, Cascina Fontana’s Barolo del Comune di Castiglione Falletto is comprised of their two vineyards in the comune, Villero and Valletti. This sees both a longer fermentation and maturation time than the Barolo Classico, spending an extra year or so resting in their cellars. The 2020 is rich and complex, with aromas of cacao, violet and lavender alongside lifted and vibrant fruit. The palate is clear, with sweet red cherry, earthy dried rose, and ripe sculpted tannins. This speaks so clearly of its terroir.
Drink 2026 – 2040+
Charlie Leech, Buying Assistant, Berry Bros. & Rudd