Collection: Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot, Flagey-Échézeaux - Expressions of Interest
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Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot, Flagey-Echezeaux
Neal Martin, Vinous.com “Coquard Loison Fleurot is your new favorite domaine. I know, I know. It’s a bit of a mouthful. Writing this I keep having to check the correct spelling. It was the “surprise package” of over 100 visits tasting 2016s. It was the visit that sent tingles down my spine. It was the visit where I had to maintain my Lady Gaga-approved poker face in order to disguise the thrill. Let’s rewind a bit. C.L.F (please accept the acronym) had been on my radar for two or three years. In fact, I reviewed some of their 2013s at a London tasting organized by Robert Rolls, who distributes their wines to restaurants here in the UK. Their 2013 Clos de la Roche received 95 points, hefty praise, and in the producer blurb my avow to visit the domaine. Fast forward three years and I am sitting in Dilettante restaurant in Beaune. Serendipitously, behind me sit two chaps from Latimer Vintners who distribute C.L.F’s wines to private clients and the trade in the UK and inquire if I could join their visit to C.L.F the following day at 1 p.m. And what do you know, against all the odds, I have a rare “window” in my schedule at 1 p.m. the following day. Fate? Divine intervention? What I did not anticipate was being blown away by the quality of their 2016s in barrel. It is these unscripted episodes that I love the most. Winemaker Thomas Callodot, together with Claire Fleurot, have hit the ball out of the park with wines that will hopefully put this name on the map. For many years the crop was sold to négoçiants, and it was only around 2009 or 2010, when contracts started coming to an end, that they began bottling under their own name in their capacious winery in the heart of Flagey-Echézeaux. What is remarkable about this domaine is their holdings. Rather than the usual pyramid of holdings that might be crowned by a barrel or two of grand cru, C.L.F has no less than six grand crus to their name. Moreover, these are parcels of good vine age and considerable size, thereby giving Thomas more to play with if one or two barrels seem to be lagging behind. This includes three barrels of Grands Echézeaux from 0.18 hectares of vine, though sadly reduced to a single barrel in 2016 because of frost, as well as 1.29 hectares in Echézeaux. Oddly, their range skips over premier crus (even their sole Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru includes some declassified Echézeaux, though frankly, I would be bottling the Beaumonts under its own label!), but even their village crus are located in some of the more reputed vineyards at that level. Winemaking is classic and hands-off, and the 2016s are completely destemmed except for the Grands Echézeaux due to limited quantity. I found the oak here prudently used, whereas perhaps in previous vintages it came across a little heavier, allowing the terroirs to really shine in a vintage that permitted that. Stylistically, I was thinking of Mugneret-Gibourg or his nearby neighbor Emmanuel Rouget, wines brimming full of crystalline red fruit and tension with satin textures and spine-tingling tension. Thomas himself, a good friend of Sebastien Cathiard, seemed to be a chilled out and relaxed fellow who, perhaps out of the limelight, has been allowed to refine his craft. It is rare that you ever stumble across a domaine that owns their own vines, boasts enviable holdings of grand crus and, yet, seems to have flown under the radar with the exception of one or two eagle-eyed importers. If the wines are as brilliant as these 2016s, that will not be the case for much longer.”
Allen Meadows, The Burghound “This was a wonderful set of 2019s from the domaine that most people refer to as “CLF”. They have really come out of nowhere in the last three or four years, propelled by an enviable array of holdings in decent size, thereby gifting Collardot flexibility in terms of deselecting anything that does not come up to scratch and not forgetting the talent of Collardot himself. The Clos Saint-Denis knocks the ball out of the park, one of the highlights out of over 2,000 wines tasted and demonstrating just why this Grand Cru deserves to be seen as an equal to Clos de la Roche. Generally the wines are harmonious knitted together with fine-boned tannins, displays purity of fruit with impressive persistence on the finish. If you have not discovered “CLF” yet, then now is the time to do so.”
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Bourgogne Rouge - $69
High toned & fruitful with ripe strawberry and raspberry lifting from the glass with beautiful transparency & purity.
The palate is light on its feet with a line of minerality and freshness wrapped in sweet fruit.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Bright aromas of red pinot fruit and earth lead to delicious lighter weight flavors that are at once sleek and seductive while concluding in a refreshing and mildly austere finale. To enjoy upon release.
86-88 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Chambolle-Musigny - $159
Violets & restrained ripe raspberry dominate the nose initially but with coaxing begins to reveal more detail & nuance.
The palate is light on its feet with fine ripe tannins, lacy florals & delicate, olfactory filling sweet fruit.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from Les Gamaires
A deft but not imperceptible application of wood sets off more elegant and more layered aromas of red cherry, raspberry and a violet top note. The super-sleek, refined and punchy flavors possess an almost delicate mouthfeel that carries over to the markedly stony and youthfully austere finale. This could use better depth so a few years of cellaring should be helpful.
88-91 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Morey-Saint-Denis - $136
A slightly darker fruit component on the introduction with wild black fruits, darker protile florals, violet and all with jaw clenching tension.
The palate is firm, structured and overtly mineral. Beautiful presence with ample ripe, present & firm tannins wrapped in black plum & spice.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from Les Crais Gillon, Clos Solon, En Seuvrey and Corvée Creunille
High-toned aromas of the essence of red currant are cut with subtle floral and spice wisps, in particular anise. The punchy medium-bodied flavors possess a beguiling mouthfeel along with more power, if less evident minerality, on the balanced, sneaky long and slightly more complex finale. Lovely and worth a look.
89-91 points - Outstanding
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Gevrey-Chambertin - $143
A slight sweet spice wood framing backed up with intense rasberry & strawberry jam that is lifted with detailed violets all with an underlying wet rock & moss tension.
The palate is salivating & mineral, again with wet rock and moss but with the most delicious ripe red fruit coating the palate. An incredibly powerful line of energy drives the entire sensation.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from Champerrier Bas plus parcels in En Songe and Vignes Belles
This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and here it's enough to overshadow the fruit. By contrast, there is a lovely sense of vibrancy to the supple, delicious and caressing medium weight flavors that possess fine length on the youthfully austere finale. This could however use better depth so a few years of proper cellaring are advised.
89-91 points - Outstanding
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Vosne-Romanée - $159
A little more haunting, transparent & lifted with subtle but perfectly ripe red cherry & raspberry. A little line of lime & crushed chalk keep the nose focused.
Delicate & woven that mutes for moment before slowly releasing its power and length, although never overwhelmingly so. Certainly long, lifted & present.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from Les Chalandins, Quartiers de Nuits, Les Violettes and Basses Maizières
An ultra-fresh and exuberantly spicy nose features note of plum, red cherry, tea and a whiff of violet. The rich, delicious and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors deliver both fine length and depth on the balanced, firm and sleek finish. This is an excellent Vosne villages and worth your interest.
89-92 points - Outstanding
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Nuits-Saint-Georges - $136
Higher toned, more tensile with slight reduction that blows off to reveal very pretty violets & ripe red cherry. A little crushed limestone.
The palate has a more delicate stance than your usual NSG very pretty.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from a .25 ha parcel in Les Athées
A completely different, and distinctly brooding, nose grudgingly reveals its aromas of red and dark currant, the sauvage and a whiff of forest floor character. The lighter weight flavors are very supple, indeed one could say forward, before tightening up on the dusty and lingering finish where a touch of asperity eventually surfaces. This is pretty enough but the balance isn't perfect.
87-89 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru - $330
As above but with an additional layer of dense fruit & hinting to a sweet spice wood frame. A little more closed, also.
The palate mutes before releasing supreme power & density. Very closed but the quality, concentration and class is apparent. long.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: 75% from Les Beaux Monts and 25% from the Echézeaux climat of Les Beaumonts Bas, which is the same parcel as the two adjoin
Here too there is enough reduction to suppress the fruit but not the spice nuances. The succulent and slightly richer middle weight flavors also possess a seductive mouthfeel before concluding in a youthfully austere, balanced and focused finale. While this could use better depth, a little patience should be sufficient to address that.
90-93 points - Outstanding
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru - $442
Beautifully poised with transparent, pure fruit that is olfactory filling, light on its feet but with ample fruit and flesh.
The palate is fine with crushed white florals and crushed chalk wrapped in bright raspberry with a squeeze of lime.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from a .66 ha parcel that runs from Baudes Basses to Grand Maupertui
An exuberantly fresh and bright nose speaks of the essence of red pinot fruit, newly turned earth and a discreet application of wood. There is good punch and precision, if only average density, to the appealingly textured medium weight flavors that are supported by relatively fine-grained tannins on the youthfully austere and sneaky long finale.
91-93 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru - $442
Fruitful & welcoming with ripe cherry & plum which is velvety and caressing. An underlying darker fruit generosity, also.
As the nose suggests the palate is round, silky & fruitful with velvet like structure which is present but not overwhelming.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from a .35 ha holding near the bottom of Mazoyères
Firm reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose though there is again good punch and precision to the lilting and refined medium-bodied flavors that also conclude in a moderately austere, balanced and persistent finale that is already displaying fine complexity.
91-94 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Échezeaux Grand Cru - $492
A slight wood frame and with the same poised weightless fruit that still exudes power. The introduction of a lavender floral lift from the glass.
The palate is firm, structured & present wrapped in stupendously pretty, present but not overwhelming fruit thats power is seemingly endlessly.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
from a large 1.33 ha holding in Les Treux, En Orveau and Les Poulaillères
Once again the nose is firmly reduced and revealing nothing. In the same vein as several wines in the range, there is both excellent freshness and a super-sleek mouthfeel to the utterly delicious, if not especially dense flavors that possess a beguiling inner mouth perfumed, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and beautifully balanced finale. Lovely.
92-94 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru - $475
Poised fruit with an underlying black forest fruit depth with wetrock & moss minerality. Quite transparent & with coaxing becomes olfactory filling & offers more detail.
Mutes for a moment before releasing absolute power of fruit, minerality an a nice saline touch. Very long. Very mineral.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from a large 1.16 ha holding in Chabiots and Mochamps
This is also very firmly reduced and unreadable today. The delicious and intense middle weight flavors that do possess an appealing mouthfeel despite not being particularly concentrated that continues onto the lingering finale. At present this is pretty but not especially deep so at least some patience is in order.
90-93 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru - $696
The most concentrated but also the most muted. Incredible power lays underneath only giving hints, glimpes of its future.
The palate is so incredibly dense yet effortlessy light. It oozes class, refinement & lasts forever. The true genius is yet to come.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: from a .16 ha holding in CSD proper
A perfumed and elegant nose combines notes of various red berries with a lovely array of spice and floral nuances plus a hint of earth. Once again the mouthfeel of the medium weight flavors is super-sleek thanks to the fine-grained tannins supporting the youthfully austere, long and balanced finale. This lilting and classy effort does need better depth but that should only be a matter of exercising some patience.
91-94 points
Allen Meadows, The Burghound
2023 Domaine Coquard Loison-Fleurot Grands-Échezeaux Grand Cru - $842
Poised and weightless with absolute interest & detail before being muted for a moment before rereleasing interest. This same pattern follows again & again.
Weightless, woven, high toned & so incredibly olfactory filling. Long. Just wow.
-Jono Hersey, FWC
Note: also from a .16 ha holding
A wonderfully spicy and ultra-fresh floral-suffused nose also derives mostly from the red side of the fruit spectrum. The intense, detailed and powerful larger-scaled flavors coat the palate with dry extract while displaying superb length on the dusty, firmly austere and balanced finale. The prior wines are have their attributes but this is the clear class of the range in 2023.
93-95 points - Don't miss!
Allen meadows, The Burghound
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