Domaine Robert-Denogent is one of the original Lapierre disciples, and they are true believers in clean natural wine. What sets them apart from the other disciples is that they are in white wine territory rather than in Beaujolais.
Very, very old and low yielding vineyards picked at optimal ripeness with plenty of acidity. Minimal to no sulphur is used and the barrels are stored at sub ten degree temperatures ensuring an extremely long cold primary and secondary fermentation. Some bottlings spend up to 36 months in barrel and somehow become tighter and tighter… it defies logic but the result is nothing short of magnificent.
If Burghound and the likes of are anything to go by, these guys are producing Pouilly-Fuissé that matches the top five white wine domaines of Burgundy proper, in quality terms. It is widely known that Domaine Robert-Denogent is the best producer in the Mâcon.
William Kelley on Domaine Robert Denogent:
“This fine 8.5-hectare domaine located in the village of Fuissé enjoys a deserved reputation for quality and consistency. Old vines, moderate yields and organic farming of their 35 different parcels are the foundation of their renown. Harvesting is by hand, followed by fermentation with ambient yeasts and unusually long élevage on the lees for between 20 and 36 months—in concrete eggs, stainless steel tanks and barrels, depending on the cuvée. Indeed, Denogent told me that his family increasingly see long élevage as the secret to achieving harmony and integration in warm, ripe vintages. The result is wines of depth, texture and concentration, clearly differentiated by site. They come warmly recommended.”