Domaine Thomas Collardot

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Domaine Thomas Collardot is a 2.5-hectare domaine based in Puligny Montrachet run by Jacqueline Collardot and son, Matthieu. Their first vintage was in 2015 with the ‘Les Petits Poriers Bourgogne Blanc however Jacqueline’s father, Pierre Thomas, produced wine up until 1992. Jacqueline and Matthieu have quite quickly reclaimed the previously leased vineyards (farmed by Philippe Chavy since Pierre’s retirement) and now have a very interesting line up of Puligny Montrachet lieu dits as well as premier crus Les Folatieres and Hameau de Blagny.

Allen Meadows, Jasper Morris, William Kelley, Steen Ohman, Neil Martin and others are all singing the praises of this young, minute estate. In fact, William Kelley stated they are most closely linked to Jacques Carillon in style, not a statement one should ignore!!

"This 2.5-hectare micro-domaine is an exciting new arrival on the Puligny scene, and my visit with Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu revealed plenty of promise. Winemaking is classical, with fermentation and élevage in barrel followed by three months settling in stainless steel before bottling. While the wines have a style of their own, Domaine Jacques Carillon provides the closest analogy I can think of within the village. For now, a terrific old vine Puligny Enseignères is the pick of the range, but in 2018 a small quantity of Folatières—which has hitherto been entirely purchased by another rising star of the Côte de Beaune—will be joining the portfolio. I'm not sure how much potential for expansion there is beyond that, but in any case, the future is surely very bright indeed with this small estate. Readers would do well to seek out the wines before word gets out."

-William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

 

2019 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Petits Poirers

There is an inviting richness on the nose which is controlled, defined & quite nuanced for the level. While there is an underlying yellow fruit character there is plenty of dry extract, nuanced white florals and pleasing savoury flavours. Structured, grippy and mineral all wrapped in a lovely, generous swathe of slightly dried quince and pear. Underlying sweet spice. Restrained, long and granular. - Jono Hersey, FWC

A citrusy nose offers up notes of exotic tea and plenty of floral nuances. The caressing, delicious and seductively textured flavors possess fine energy on the clean and agreeably dry finale. This is a quality effort for the genre and one that should repay a few years of cellaring if desired. 87 points, outstanding, top value. - Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2018 Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Petits Poirers’

A supremely fresh, bright and taut 2018. The nose shows clarity & precision with a little slightly rich, yet detailed orchard fruit on the sidelines. A slight saline lift. Not as much dry extract as the 2019. The palate implodes for a moment before showing energy & length in the form of bruised preserved lemon. Chalky, grippy yet not showing as much density nor puppy fat as the 2019. Very saline with great length. -Jono Hersey, FWC

A super-fresh nose freely offers up notes of apple, citrus and a hint of spice. There is lovely verve to the well-detailed and solidly concentrated flavors that possess above average depth and persistence for a Bourgogne. In fact, this very dry and refreshing effort could easily pass for a villages level wine. 88 points, outstanding, top value. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2019 Puligny Montrachet 'Les Houlieres'

On the border of Chassagne-Montrachet. A wine of reasonable substance, currently showing a little puppy fat which, I believe will become more defined with both time in the glass but preferably time in the bottle. Floral with an underling citrus oil character. The palate shows some breadth and size. It is mouth filling and shows some pleasing aggressive grip. - Jono Hersey, FWC

An even more floral nose reflects notes of acacia blossom, rose petal, citrus rind and freshly slice apple. There is good volume to the delicious and relatively generously proportioned flavors that possess a seductive mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the mildly rustic if length finale that is almost bone-dry. 89-91 points. - Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2018 Puligny Montrachet 'Les Houlieres'

On the border of Chassagne-Montrachet. Much higher toned and showing a lot more of its bones than the 2019. There is a lovely lemon rind, pith, tension to the nose. A little saline sea spray and a little yellow plum for size. There is lovely grapefruit liveliness which is accompanied by serious grip and minerality. A slight savoury tropical character compliments the well-structured wine and in no way looks too flamboyant nor overtly flavoured. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Whiffs of lemon rind and petrol character are present on the ripe white orchard fruit nose. The rich and generously proportioned middle weight flavors possess a borderline creamy texture while the citrus-tinged acidity is sufficiently pronounced to maintain the balance on the delicious and nicely complex finale. 88-91 points. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2017 Puligny Montrachet 'Les Houlieres'

On the border of Chassagne-Montrachet. Bruised preserved lemon, overtly ripe lemon juice, grapefruit juice, starfruit and nuances of slightly more tropical fruits. Important to note that there is more than ample dry extract, citrus and saline character to compliment the tropical nuances. The palate is fine and angular wrapped in pleasing fruit and grapefruit juice. Finishes with mandarin oil giving lovely, interesting length. - Jono Hersey, FWC

 

2016 Puligny Montrachet 'Les Houlieres'

On the border of Chassagne-Montrachet. Dried mango, pineapple, fresh pawpaw, ripe grapefruit, bruised lemon all topped off with a nice saline lift. The palate while flavoursome mutes for a moment before showing its full scale of size, extract and length. Mandarin oil, sweet spice and a waxy nature build and begin to reveal more and more. - Jono Hersey, FWC

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Les Houlières has less reduction than the Les Enseignères and works much better as a result: fine mineral scents, struck flint and a touch of smoke. The palate is fresh on the entry well balanced with a precise malic finish that shimmers with vitality. Excellent. 91 points. Neal Martin, vinous.com

                                                                                     

2019 Puligny Montrachet 'Derriere la Velle'

Just below Paupillot (east) and similarly just north of the township of Puligny Montrachet on the left hand side as one drives from Meursault. A little more subdued than the au Paupillot but shares equal definition. A little more orchard fruit and even a slight underlying sweet spice. With coaxing in the glass, a little more definition does begin to lift and show a little more tension and dried extract. Lovely weight and fruit that mutes and implodes on the palate to show dense, firm fruit and dried extract. Fruit profile is ever changing on the palate between orchard and whiskers of tropical interest. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Note: this too is rarely seen as a declared example.

Once again there is an abundance of floral elements adding elegance to the aromas of passion fruit, petrol and just sliced apple. There is fine richness to the more concentrated and intense flavors that flash evident power on the slightly longer and more complex finale. This is a quality Puligny villages and worth considering. 89-91 points, outstanding. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2018 Puligny Montrachet 'Derriere la Velle'

Just below Paupillot (east) and similarly just north of the township of Puligny Montrachet on the left hand side as one drives from Meursault. Lighter on its feet, more detailed and delicate. Preserved lemon, lavender, honeysuckle and passionfruit vibrancy. A little mandarin oil unfurls in the glass. The palate is mineral and saline (a little less than the au Paupillot) with a little more fruit on the palate and perhaps even another layer of complexity in the form of sweet spice. Again, brilliant minerality and structure but just a little more hidden behind some remaining puppy fat. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Pretty and more floral-inflected aromas are comprised by notes of tangerine peel, lavender and poached pear. There is very good vibrancy to the attractively detailed medium weight flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel, all wrapped in a markedly dry but not really austere finale. This too is a very good Puligny villages and worth your interest. 89-91 points, outstanding. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2017 Puligny Montrachet 'Derriere la Velle'

Just below Paupillot (east) and similarly just north of the township of Puligny Montrachet on the left hand side as one drives from Meursault. High toned and what seems to be a theme with all the 2017s, a beautiful harmony between completely open fruit, tension and sea spray. The palate, while sharing the above characters has an overwhelming amount of unctuous fruit that coats the entirety of the palate. Lovely gripe and size but not the most fine-tuned in the stable. - Jono Hersey, FWC

From old vines that tend to produce small, shot berries, the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Derrière La Velle unfurls in the glass with aromas of honeyed citrus, crisp green apple, white flowers and almond paste. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and chewy, with good concentration and extract. Broad-shouldered and muscular, it's the most rustic wine in the cellar but displays plenty of substance. 89-91 points. William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

 

2019 Puligny Montrachet 'Paupillot'

Located by the village of Puligny Montrachet on the right hand side as one drives from Meursault. Slight reduction that begins to blow off and first shows custard apple before beginning to show more detail in the form of dried florals. A wine with lovely tension and nervosity on the palate. Saline and skeletal with nowhere near as much puppy fat as most 2019s. While the nose will take some coaxing to unfurl and show detail, the palate is ready to go. Lovely and saline. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Note: a rarely seen vineyard.

A discreet if perceptible touch of wood sets off the essence of pear and apple aromas that are trimmed in hints of lemon-lime and soft floral wisps. There is good power to the slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors that conclude in a citrus zest suffused finish that also exhibits a touch of rusticity along with a hint of warmth. 89-91 points. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2018 Puligny Montrachet 'Paupillot'

Located by the village of Puligny Montrachet on the right hand side as one drives from Meursault. Even higher toned and direct than the 2019. Light on its feet with detailed, dried florals, freshly burst citrus oils and crunchy green apple. The palate is extremely energetic and long with very pleasing minerality and salinity. Lovely grapefruit and lemon bitterness carries along with the structure of the wine. This is my kind of drink! - Jono Hersey, FWC

A more elegant nose combines notes of green apple and lemon-lime nuances with those of acacia blossom and almost imperceptible wood. The medium-bodied flavors are not nearly as rich, but they are notably finer and more precise before concluding in a clean, dry and slightly more refreshing finale. This is quite good and worth checking out. 89-91 points, outstanding. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2019 Puligny Montrachet 'Les Enseignieres'

A 9.12 hectare vineyard making it the largest vineyard of its classification within Puligny, of which Domaine Thomas Collardot farms 0.127 hectares. Sitting just below Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet, it is well known to be the finest of the village level Puligny vineyards. It shares a similar breadth and concentration to Batard and Bienvenue but falls short due to a fault line between both.

Showing quite young with a little wood and ripe, detailed white peach which is incredibly enticing. There is a lighter, brighter star fruit lift that is quite unique and energetic. A little floral spice also. The palate is unctuous, detailed, mineral, structured and delicious. It fills and coats the mouth but also maintains refreshing 'want for more’. This, with time in the cellar will be a brilliant wine. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Slightly more evident wood frames the exceptionally floral suffused nose of cool white fleshed fruit, lemongrass and discreet exotic nuances. The succulent, round and fleshy yet punchy medium-bodied flavors possess a caressing mouthfeel where the balance is maintained by citrus-tinged acidity on the solidly powerful and sneaky long finish. This too is a high quality Puligny villages and worth a look. 89-92 points, outstanding, top value. - Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2018 Puligny Montrachet 'Les Enseignieres'

A 9.12 hectare vineyard making it the largest vineyard of its classification within Puligny, of which Domaine Thomas Collardot farms 0.127 hectares. Sitting just below Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet and Batard-Montrachet it is well known to be the finest of the village level Puligny vineyards. It shares a similar breadth and concentration to Batard and Bienvenue but falls short due to a fault line between both.

As with the 2019 Les Enseignieres, there is obviously more breadth and scale than previous lieu-dits. All the while with lift, tension and detail. The palate is overwhelmingly energetic and long and much lighter on its feet than the 2019 example. There is such incredible detail and interest to the acid profile. Lime, passionfruit, pineapple acid tones. Extremely long and first rate.- Jono Hersey, FWC

A ripe yet nicely cool and very fresh nose is composed by notes of acacia blossom, passion fruit, lemon zest and a whiff of spiced pear. The medium-bodied flavors are a lovely combination of power and refinement while exhibiting excellent depth on the lingering and beautifully textured finale. This too is a first-rate Puligny villages. 89-92 points, outstanding, top value. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2019 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru 'Hameau de Blagny'

A narrow vineyard located alongside the hamlet of Blagny (as the name suggests!). For centuries it was owned by the monks of the Abbey de Maizieres. The altitude starts at 319 metres up to 340 metres, with an east-facing 15% gradient at its steepest point. It produces wines that are a little gentler and smoother.

A wood frame and scale we have not seen in these wines as yet. With time in the glass, it begins to show more moreish detail in the form of ripe, welcoming white fleshed stone fruit and sweet spice. The welcoming, large scaled succulent stone fruit flavours are more than translated to the palate, they are multiplied. Round in nature but in an extremely pleasing form. Long considering the shape. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Slightly riper and decidedly less oaky aromas include those of various white orchard fruit, lavender plus citrus confit and soft spice hints. There is better intensity and slightly better concentration as well to the middle weight flavors that are tightly wound, compact and citrusy. This will need at least a few years to unwind and add flesh to the somewhat linear finish. 90-92 points. Allen meadows, The Burghound

 

2018 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru 'Hameau de Blagny'

A narrow vineyard located alongside the hamlet of Blagny (as the name suggests!). For centuries it was owned by the monks of the Abbey de Maizieres. The altitude starts at 319 metres up to 340 metres, with an east-facing 15% gradient at its steepest point. It produces wines that are a little gentler and smoother.

More open and less of a wood frame than the 2019. Lovely tension and sea spray sits on top of the larger scaled, welcoming and succulent stone fruit flavours. A lovely savoury undertone complexifies the wine. The palate is open, granular, structured and long with less of an emphasis on fruit and ripeness. Old school White Burgundy in its character. - Jono Hersey, FWC

Here the expressive nose offers a small step up in aromatic elegance with its cool and ultra-fresh aromas of spiced jasmine tea, pear and green apple. The racy, intense and beautifully well-delineated middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the chiseled, bone-dry and impressively long finale. 90-93 points, outstanding. Allen Meadows, The Burghound

 

2019 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru 'Les Folatieres'

A vineyard favoured by those that adore airy, structured and skeletal White Burgundy. At a 15% gradient, erosion has created a terroir that sits on bony rocks and limestone with a wine to match.

Wood frame and puppy fat/lemonade that is subdued but controls the apparent high-toned fruit trying to lift through the glass. Plenty of underlying sweet spice. The palate is unctuous, aggressively structured and seemingly lasting forever in the mouth. Far lighter on its feet than the nose lets on. A wine for the cellar, even if just for a year or two as a minimum please! - Jono Hersey, FWC

Note: from Au Chaniot, which is in my view the best of the 4 lieux-dits that make up Folatières; one barrel made.

Here too moderate but not invasive wood influence sets off the cool, pure and very pretty aromas that are classic Puligny. The rich, seductively textured and overtly stony flavors possess fine mid-palate density before concluding in a bone-dry, more complex and firmer finale. This is really lovely and worth checking out. 91-94 Points, outstanding. Allen Meadows, The Burghound